Stephen likes Fes in the mornings. That is when the city is still quiet and the locals are laid back. As you walk through the Medina, you aren't fervently accosted by carpet merchants, souvenir sellers and what nots. It is a time when you are able to appreciate the city's architecture, soak in the sights and see Fes as Fes.
It is also the time where most ladies (and some men) do their marketing, where the produce is still fresh and not yet wilting in the hot sun.
By the early afternoon, you start to feel a tingle. There are more locals about, you smell more donkeys (some of which look very adorable) and persistent food touts start shoving menus at your face.
At about three o'clock, after a satisfying lunch, a siesta is needed. Except that the Moroccans don't call it siesta, although I do not know the term they use. The locals return to their homes for lunch and a short rest and about five, everybody starts coming out again.

I like Fes in the evenings. By six, the Medina is buzzing. Buzzing with people, donkeys, sounds and smells. It is a perfect time to get lost in the souks (the maze of markets). There is a souk each for clothes, antiques, amenities, food, spices and everything else in between. It is a perfect time to
experience Fes as Fes.
Fes was my introduction to Morocco. A less touristy spot (although it is becoming increasingly popular), relatively untainted by commercialism with a slightly laid back atmosphere which is lacking in Marrakech.
The locals are less pushy and more friendly. Shop owners you meet the day before greet you enthusiastically the next time they see you. They offer you Moroccan whisky (Moroccan Mint Tea) even though you have no interest in buying any of their carpets, antiques or doors.
They might have spiked the whisky though, because after drinking from one of those cute glasses (where the tea was poured from Aladdin looking tea pots), I found myself haggling for a Saharan carpet and walking out with one rolled under my arm and 40 quid poorer.
And a carpet was the last freaking thing on my shopping list.
Had I drank another cup, I would have ended up buying a wooden door. I know it.


Stephan always looks out for his guests and only introduces trust-worthy shops to visit, shops which he knows the owners would not rip us off or sell us damaged goods.
His friend, our guide for the day, also showed us where the famed honey shop is. There are vats and vats of honey in the store. And I am talking of huge vats, the height of your chest filled with honey from Moroccan bees. Each vat has a different flavour with about fifteen or so in total. I had a sugar rush by the time I was done tasting them. My favourites are the Orange Blossoms, Cedar and Asphrodile (a medicinal honey which instantly warms your throat as you take a tiny spoonful).
It is a perfect gift, and if you have enough luggage space, buy a couple of varieties, repack them into tiny jars and distribute different flavours to friends.
You will be surprised at how alive the city is even at 9 pm. Little children are running about, old grannies are out and everybody is talking to somebody.
I was intimidated initially, the arabic language which the locals speak sounds very harsh and gutteral. It is not spoken in a friendly and soothing tone. Couple this with their stares and the seemingly disorganised alleys, you get one pretty cautious tourist.
But once you come to terms with the fact that this is the way they are and that they do not mean any harm, you find yourself truly enjoying this yet untainted charming city.
For moroccan accomodation of grandeur infused with modernism, visit
Riad Fes.
For moroccan carpets, doors and other antiques, go to Coin Berbère is at 67 Talaa Kebira in the Haddadine quarter of the Fez medina (212) 35-63-69-46.
http://query.nytimes.comFor moroccan honey, go to Nafis Hicham at Tala Kebira, Fondouk Kaat Smen 81; (212) 35634-269.
http://travel.nytimes.com/2007/02/04/travel/04foraging.html?ref=travelFor a proper fes write up, go to
http://travel.nytimes.com//2007/04/08/travel/08Fez.html.
To visit Riad Numero 9, go to this
website.

